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Spring/Summer Hours
CLOSED on Labor Day
M-F 8am to 6pm
Sat. 9am to 5pm
Sun. Noon to 5pm
719-598-8733 |
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Make sure to start watering trees,
shrubs, perennials, and your lawn. See below for directions. |
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How to water Trees, Shrubs,
Perennials, etc:
Do
not keep plants saturated with frequent sprinklings, and do not allow drought to
wither the foliage. The correct method falls between these two
extremes. It is important that trees and shrubs receive water only when
needed to prevent oxygen deprivation caused by water displacing air in the soil. This is critical as plants
need for oxygen is as important as its need for water. The correct method
of watering is a slow application using a hose, drip system, or deep root waterer. If water
runs off of the root ball it is being
applied at to fast of a rate. If there is a higher side of the root ball,
this is where the hose or dripper should be applied. Remember that
prolonged intervals between watering, short of desiccation, gives the maximum
encouragement for growth, as well as helping the tree or shrub to establish a
root system that will tolerate harsh drought conditions.
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Newly planted Autumn Blaze Maple
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This picture illustrates a
newly planted tree. The hose or dripper should be placed on the high
side of the root ball to allow for the entire root ball to absorb
water. All roots must get water as each root feeds a different part
of the tree.
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How Often?
We
cannot tell you how often to water your trees and
shrubs. We can tell you when it is time to
water. Trees and shrubs need water when the soil 6-8 inches deep
at the edge of the root ball is dry. To check this you must perform a hand
soil moisture test. Dig 6-8 inches deep at the outside edge of the root
ball
(by hand or with a small trowel). Squeeze the soil from that
depth. If it makes a moist ball there is enough moisture in the soil. Do not
water. If it crumbles and breaks apart, then it is time
to water. Do not concern yourself with the top inch or so of soil.
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Do remember to check each tree. We have many micro-climates and many
types of soils. A sandier soil will allow water to move through it
faster, thus drying quicker. Clay soils will hold the water tightly
making drainage a problem. The soil at one spot can be completely
different from a spot only a few feet away. You should check each
individual tree to determine its watering needs. Mark these
intervals on a calendar so you get an idea of how long it takes to dry out
the soil. Pay special attention to weather conditions. If we
get moisture it may be even longer before you have to water. Just
check your soil.
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If the soil makes a moist ball it has enough moisture
and does not need water.
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If the soil won't make a ball and crumbles then it
is time to do a slow drip with a hose or drip system.
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| NOTE: Soil
in the containers of potted trees and shrubs is very light to promote drainage
and prevent root damage in plastic containers. The light soil will likely
dry much faster than surrounding planting site soil and will likely need more
frequent, lighter watering that B&B plants. Once roots grow out into
their "new home", then regular checking
of the soil as described above determines watering intervals.
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